The Shed Out Back May Sit Under a Different Limit
A detached shed often falls under other structures coverage, not the house limit. Read the declarations page before you sign a roof scope.
- Total moves
- Eight. Four of them are yours.
- Moves a roofer owns
- One and a half: documenting the roof, and building it.
- Usual bottleneck
- Step five, the field adjuster queue, after a metro-wide event.
- Most misread number
- The first cheque at step six.
A storage shed or a detached workshop in the back yard can take a storm as hard as the house does. A gust can lift the panels off a metal shed, hail can dent its roof, and a limb from a tree on the neighbor's side can open a hole in a shingled shed roof in one afternoon. When the storm passes, many homeowners find that the shed is listed on their insurance paperwork apart from the house, and that the figure they expected to apply to it is not the one printed on the page. This page explains where a detached structure usually sits in a homeowner policy, what to photograph before anyone climbs a ladder, and what a roofer should put in writing so the shed does not get folded into the house claim by accident.
Why a shed is not the house
A standard homeowner policy is organized around the dwelling, meaning the house you live in. Detached buildings on the same lot are often covered under a separate heading, commonly called other structures coverage, and that heading usually carries its own limit. The limit is printed on the declarations page, the front section of the policy that lists your coverages and the amounts. Some policies set other structures as a share of the dwelling limit, while others state a flat dollar figure. The wording varies by insurer and by policy form, so the only dependable source is the policy you actually hold.
That separation matters for the claim. If the shed roof and the house roof are damaged by the same storm, they may be scoped on separate sheets, with separate photos and separate totals, even though both were hit in the same hour. A single combined estimate makes it hard to tell later which dollar figure belongs to which building, especially if one of them needs a second visit.
Read the policy before you read the roof bid
Before anyone writes a scope for the shed, pull out the declarations page and find three things: the dwelling limit, the other structures limit, and any wording that treats a detached building differently when it is used for a business or rented out. Some policies handle a workshop used for paid work differently from a garden shed. If you run a small repair business from the outbuilding, tell your agent in writing before a storm, not after.
The policy also controls which causes of loss apply to the shed. Windstorm and hail are commonly covered perils on standard forms, but some policies add separate wind or hail wording, and some exclusions apply to certain structures. Read the exclusions section next to the coverage grant. Do not rely on a verbal summary from anyone, including the agent, when the written policy is available.
What to photograph on a shed before the ladder goes up
Many storm files photograph the house first, which is how the shed ends up with a single wide shot taken from the driveway. Give the shed its own set. Walk the full perimeter and photograph each side of the roof from the ground, holding the phone level. Then take close shots of each damaged spot with a coin or a tape measure laid beside it for scale. Photograph the drip edge or gutter on the shed, the fasteners along the ridge, and any dent pattern on metal panels. If the shed has a window, a door or a vent, photograph those too, because wind-driven debris often strikes the side that faces the storm.
Write down the storm date, the time you first saw the damage, and the direction the wind was blowing from if you know it. Keep the photographs in a folder with the date in the file name. A dated folder is far easier to show later than a pile of photos sitting in a phone camera roll with no order to them.
What St. Louis storms do to a shed roof
Straight-line wind is the usual source of trouble on sheds in this area. Small outbuildings carry much less weight on their roofs than a house does, so a gust that barely moves the house can lift a corner of the shed roof and crease a panel or tear a row of shingles. Hail is the second cause. A metal shed roof shows round dents where the stones struck, and a shingled shed roof may show bruised granules that look like nothing from the ground. Falling limbs are the third. Older neighborhoods with large tree canopies, including parts of Kirkwood and Ladue, can drop a limb straight onto a shed roof during a single front.
Freeze and thaw matter too. A shed roof that was already lifting at the edge can open further through a winter, and the damage may look older than the storm that caused it. That is why the storm date and the first photographs are worth keeping. They show the roof as it was first seen, not as it looks when it is finally inspected months later.
What a roofer should put in writing for a shed
A roofer who inspects the house and the shed on the same visit should produce two scopes, one for each structure. Each scope should list the roofing material, the measured area, the number of squares, each damaged location with its photo, and the repair or replacement recommended for that building. Keys puts that written scope, with photos and measurements, in the homeowner's hands. Keys also attends as the contractor on the day of the inspection and the work, while the homeowner deals with their own insurer.
Missouri law bars a roofing contractor from representing or negotiating a homeowner's insurance claim, and RSMo 407.725 is the statute that sets that rule. A roofer may document the damage and explain the repair. The homeowner is the one who presents the claim to the insurer and decides how to respond to what the insurer sends back.
Questions to ask about the shed roof
- Will the shed be scoped on its own sheet, separate from the house?
- Which photographs show each damaged spot on the shed, and do they carry the storm date?
- Does a re-roof on this shed need a permit, and which municipal permit desk handles it?
- If the shed is shingled, which product is going on it, and how will the order be checked against that product before the bundles arrive? Keys installs Atlas and Malarkey shingles only.
- What happens to the old panels or shingles on removal day, and who hauls them away?
Permits for a detached structure
Permit rules for sheds are set by each municipality, and the size thresholds differ from one city to the next across St. Louis County. Some cities require a permit for a new structure above a certain floor area, while a re-roof on an existing shed may not need one at all. Call the municipal permit desk before the work is scheduled and ask two questions: does a re-roof on a shed of this size need a permit, and is a full replacement treated differently from a repair. Keep the answer in writing, or at least record the name of the person who gave it and the date of the call.
Put the shed on the claim list before the crew arrives
Before the first crew visit, make a short list: the house roof, the shed roof, the gutters on each building, any fence panels that were moved, and anything stored inside the shed that got wet. Give that list to your insurer in whatever form your agent asks for, and keep a copy for yourself. When the crew arrives, walk them to the shed first, then to the house, and ask them to record the shed on its own sheet. A small step at the start keeps the outbuilding from disappearing into the house total.
Step three, if you want it done properly
Keys Roofing photographs each slope, measures the roof, and writes a scope of the work the roof needs. You keep all of it whether or not a claim ever exists and whether or not you hire us.
If a claim is already open, a Keys estimator can be on the roof during the adjuster's inspection as the contractor and answer questions about the building. Keys does not speak for you to your insurer, does not negotiate any part of the claim, and takes no share of any settlement.
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